Luxury has long been defined by lavishness, maximalism and flashy fashion. But now, as simplicity starts to reign supreme, new menswear labels by male designers, no less, are emerging with a shared, fresh focus on impeccable basics, evergreen classics and first-rate materials. The following four low-profile luxury menswear labels — each born as a second life for a fashion-industry veteran — evoke a modern, subdued elegance, and represent a new age in high-end fashion.
Following a four-year stint as the men’s design director for Thom Browne, the visionary Robert Childs branched out on his own to launch an expertly edited collection of menswear — at the heart of which are crisp, masculine silhouettes that often recall those of bygone eras. Each Childs piece, from monochromatic must-haves to more vibrant styles, is crafted with everyday use in mind in modern, breathable fabrics.
A traditionalist at heart and a boundary-pusher by nature, Paul Helbers is an undeniable force in fashion. After career-defining roles as the head of design for menswear at Maison Margiela and later Louis Vuitton, the Dutch designer embarked on a solo endeavour, debuting his eponymous label Helbers last year. The exclusive line — which includes staples like tailored clothing, knits, and athleisure — steers clear of obvious trends and instead centres around enduring styles reinterpreted for the modern man.
Envisioning menswear through a bolder, more contemporary lens is Deveaux. The young brand was launched to much acclaim in 2015 by Matt Breen of the beloved, yet short-lived, Carson Street Clothiers boutique in SoHo. The retailer-turned-designer’s vision was to create a line of made-in-America menswear that was both stylish and unpretentious — an undertaking that has been undeniably achieved by the NYC-based brand’s exceptional knits, shirts, trousers, and outerwear.
For Mario and Pierluigi “Gigi" Boglioli, luxury fashion runs in the family. The Italian brothers, whose eponymous tailoring house was sold in recent years to a private equity fund, recently launched The Gigi. Their new label’s laidback approach to sartorialism and nods to suit-making traditions has helped pave the way to a new era of menswear. The line’s relaxed tailored garments build on the signature, deconstructed aesthetics of Boglioli — which Gigi himself helped establish. Stitched in every garment is the brand’s apt motto, “Don’t look back."